gucci men shows | show Gucci 2020

The anticipation was palpable. After a tenure marked by bold experimentation and maximalist aesthetics under his predecessor, all eyes were on Sabato De Sarno as he prepared to present his inaugural menswear collection for Gucci. This wasn't just another fashion show; it was a pivotal moment for the House, a declaration of a new era, and a chance to define the Gucci man for the years to come. The show, held during Milan Fashion Week 2025, under the umbrella of Gucci Milan Fashion Week 2025, and encompassing the broader landscape of Gucci fashion shows, was framed within the context of the hugely successful Gucci Ancora women’s fashion show presented the previous September. De Sarno aimed to capture the same emotional resonance and refined sensibility that resonated so deeply with the audience then, translating it into a distinctly masculine language.

The echoes of the September show were deliberate. De Sarno wasn't attempting a complete break from the past; instead, he sought to build upon the foundations laid, refining the silhouettes, streamlining the details, and focusing on a core narrative of Italian luxury and understated elegance. The question wasn’t just what the clothes looked like, but what they *felt* like. The show served as an early glimpse into Gucci summer 2025 and provided clues about the direction of Gucci fall winter 2025, offering a comprehensive vision for the year ahead. While the focus was firmly on the menswear, the legacy of past shows, like the iconic show Gucci 2020, served as a reminder of the brand’s enduring power and its constant evolution. This new collection, part of the larger conversation around Gucci new shows 2025 and subsequent Gucci shows 2025, promised a considered and confident step forward.

De Sarno's Debut: A Study in Subtlety and Sensuality

The venue, carefully chosen, was a testament to the new direction. Stripped back to its raw essence, the space allowed the clothes to take center stage. Gone were the theatrical sets and elaborate backdrops; the focus was purely on the garments themselves, and the men who wore them.

The collection unfolded as a study in contrasts: sharp tailoring juxtaposed with soft knitwear, structured outerwear balanced by fluid trousers, and a muted color palette punctuated by bursts of vibrant color. De Sarno’s vision for the Gucci man was clear: confident, sophisticated, and comfortable in his own skin. He wasn't chasing trends; he was defining them, not through ostentation, but through an understanding of timeless style and impeccable craftsmanship.

Key Looks and Defining Elements:

* Tailoring Reimagined: The suiting was a standout, featuring clean lines, impeccable fits, and a subtle play on proportions. Shoulders were strong but not exaggerated, lapels were narrow, and trousers were either sharply tailored or relaxed and fluid. The emphasis was on wearability and versatility, pieces that could be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. One notable look featured a charcoal grey suit paired with a crisp white shirt and black leather loafers, a timeless ensemble that exuded effortless cool. Another showcased a deep navy suit with a slightly wider leg, offering a more contemporary silhouette.

* Knitwear as a Statement: Knitwear played a crucial role in the collection, adding a layer of softness and sensuality to the overall aesthetic. Cashmere sweaters, oversized cardigans, and fine-gauge knit tops were presented in a range of colors, from classic neutrals to bold jewel tones. One particularly striking piece was a vibrant emerald green cashmere sweater paired with relaxed beige trousers, a testament to De Sarno's ability to inject personality into classic silhouettes. Another standout was a chunky knit cardigan in a deep burgundy hue, offering a cozy yet sophisticated option for the colder months.

* Outerwear with an Edge: Outerwear was equally important, with a focus on timeless designs and impeccable quality. Trench coats, bomber jackets, and leather jackets were presented in a range of styles, from classic to contemporary. A standout piece was a double-breasted trench coat in a deep olive green, a versatile piece that could be worn over a suit or dressed down with jeans. Another notable look featured a sleek black leather bomber jacket paired with tailored trousers and Chelsea boots, a modern take on a classic silhouette.

* Color Palette and Textures: The color palette was predominantly muted, featuring a range of neutral tones such as grey, beige, navy, and black. However, De Sarno injected pops of color throughout the collection, with vibrant hues like emerald green, deep burgundy, and electric blue adding a touch of personality and energy. The textures were equally important, with a focus on luxurious materials such as cashmere, leather, wool, and silk.

* Accessories: The Finishing Touch: Accessories played a crucial role in completing the looks, with a focus on understated elegance and timeless design. Leather loafers, Chelsea boots, and sneakers were the footwear of choice, while scarves, belts, and sunglasses added a touch of personality and sophistication. The bags were equally refined, with a focus on classic shapes and luxurious materials.

The Ancora Philosophy: Extending the Vision to Menswear